Denali National Park
July 9, 2005
(Adapted from daily log: Dick Worm)
Barb, Becky, Joe and I had planned to get off the Camper Bus at the Toklat Station, drop off some food in the bear storage box for use later, then backpack back across the bridge over the Toklat so that we could enter our Unit 10 permit area by crossing a tributary coming into the Toklat before proceeding on to the far base of Divide Mountain where we would pitch camp. Our goal was to then scramble around on Divide Mountain as much as time, energy, and desire would allow. We assumed that the tributary crossing would be less challenging than the Toklat, itself. We never got a chance to find out!
At the Toklat Station, there was a bear problem (in fact, it was not all that far back up the road that we had seen the mother grizzly with the two big cubs grazing on blueberries along the Park Road) that had the rangers keeping folks from getting off the buses unless just a couple at a time to dash to the outhouses! We were eventually allowed to get off and put food into the bear-proof storage.
So I asked the bus driver if it would be possible for him to drive us "back" about a mile to let us off. He said, "No problem." So eventually, the bus pulls onto the Park Road, and turns right, rather than left to go "back" across the Toklat River bridge. Well, to the driver, "back" meant further back into the depths of the park, NOT back the way we had come! That drive "back" might not have been allowable anyway, in retrospect. And, maybe there would have been no good place to turn the bus around "back" there!
Anyway, the driver took us about a mile to the opposite side of Unit 10 and on the far side of the Toklat River from where we wanted to be. We were dropped off right next to the Wolf Closure area on the edge of Unit 10.
We diddled with our packs and put on our gaiters. One of mine turned out to have a broken latch with a piece missing. I tied its strap in a knot to hold it after reversing a broken connector to try to keep the strap from slipping out.
Since we were now on the opposite side of the Toklat than we had planned, I figured we should go upstream to try to find a place to cross. There was a pretty good sized tributary stream coming in from the Wolf Closure Area to our right, but it was well-braided so pretty easy to cross. Careful selection of a route kept water out of our boots. We then had to go around far to our right close to the closure boundary due to the Toklat's main channel curving in front of us. The Toklat was fast and dirty. My thought was that by going upstream from this tributary, we'd find the Toklat to be smaller and less challenging to cross.
I still had my eye on climbing on Divide Mountain, now on the other side of the Toklat. So, coming to a wide section of the river channel (or, channels... as the river was pretty well-braided on this very wide gravelly flood plain) and after telling the others to wait, I began a crossing with water soon over the top of my boots and pulling at my gaiters, filling my boots with water. I waded facing upstream so the current would hit the front of my boots rather than the broader side of my boots. I had two trekking poles and my backpack. The current would pull gravel out from under my boots. But, fortunately, I stayed on my feet--the weight of the backpack helping maintain traction--and I reached a point of no return... over half-way so just kept plugging on rather than try to turn back; and I made it across unscathed but a bit shaky. But, I knew no one else, wisely, would want to (or should) try that crossing there! My backpack and general body weight gave me a traction advantage. But I was still desirous of having the others get across so we could all get to Divide Mountain.
Dropping my pack, I took out a rope and went further upstream looking for a wider and shallower crossing. Not much luck. One place looked fairly good, so I gave it a try. As I nearly reached the far side, the water got a bit deeper and the current pulled my right foot back as I tried to step to my right facing upstream and I rolled to my left onto my back into the water. I scrambled back to my stomach, regained my footing, and got on across. I had some scrapes on the knuckles and back of my right hand, but I had not gone "under" as my Gortex hat was still on my head and its cord had not been under my chin (foolishly!)
Walking back to the others, who I believe had made their way some distance upstream from where I had left them, I reported what they pretty much already knew, "We'll probably not find a good place to cross." They argued that I should NOT try to go back to retrieve my backpack as the water was getting deeper and faster as the ice melt into the river upstream increased as the morning sun did its thing. They figured we could make do without the group stove, cooking pots, my sleeping bag, dry clothes, and such in my pack. Well, I disagreed! But, if I did try to cross again, they felt I should have the rope tied to me.
I was not hot for that idea as I knew the water, while fast, was not really all that deep so I had little fear of drowning; but if I fell with the rope tied to me, it might drag me down and actually hinder my progress in scrambling to my feet and on across, but we gave it one try. The fairly deep water at that spot had me turn back almost immediately. I took the rope off from around my waist and with it in hand headed further upstream. I came to a spot with about 5 braided channels, and, with trepidation, did make it across without mishap and without the weight of the pack to help.
After jogging back downstream for my pack, I took a drink from my water bottle and then put it and my camera (which I had wisely left by my pack) into the main body of my pack, first also putting the camera into a Ziploc bag. I secured my hat with its cord under my chin and I started back upstream... sloshing in my boots. The river was wide here and the other folks were quite a ways across. I understand that Becky was trying to signal to me where I had crossed the third time but I failed to catch that. So apparently, I went beyond my previous crossing place and tried another spot further upstream... from which I backed out quickly when it got too deep and fast... and unsettling.
But I tried another spot and shakily made it across the first channel... which turned out to be the worst! I then more easily made it across 3 more channels... and with my chest strap loosened... to try to follow ONE rule of crossing, at least! :) But my heavy backpack was far less stable when loose and I wanted as much stable weight supporting my boot traction as I could muster so I had kept the waist belt fastened. I was tipping from side to side as it was while trying to maintain balance as I stepped with the water current tugging at my trekking poles, at my boots, and at the gravel beneath. I made the last channel crossing close to other folks waiting... and, praying I'd make it okay, as I was told. I figured they certainly didn't want any mishap by ME to ruin THEIR trip! :)
Barb had heated some water with her small stove and immediately gave to me a cup of HOT cider or cocoa... which immediately burned my tongue. I recall thinking, "Well, I made it across the durn Toklat four times pretty much unscathed and now burn my tongue!!" But it WAS nice to have friends thinking of my well-being! So, I let the drink cool as I got my feet into dry socks. I figured my quick-dry pants and shirt would dry faster on me than NOT on me and I didn't feel chilled at all, in spite of the cold glacial dirty water in which I had been splashing around.
Once I was into dry socks, soaking up the remaining moisture in my boots, we ate lunch and I finished the now cooler, hot drink. Barb, Becky, and Joe were relieved I had made the crossings but they knew it was a pretty dumb thing to have tried. TRUE - but, I had REALLY wanted us to camp on the other side to give Divide Mountain a shot and the camping looked to be a lot better over there. Maybe next time.
July 9, 2005
(Adapted from daily log: Dick Worm)
Barb, Becky, Joe and I had planned to get off the Camper Bus at the Toklat Station, drop off some food in the bear storage box for use later, then backpack back across the bridge over the Toklat so that we could enter our Unit 10 permit area by crossing a tributary coming into the Toklat before proceeding on to the far base of Divide Mountain where we would pitch camp. Our goal was to then scramble around on Divide Mountain as much as time, energy, and desire would allow. We assumed that the tributary crossing would be less challenging than the Toklat, itself. We never got a chance to find out!
At the Toklat Station, there was a bear problem (in fact, it was not all that far back up the road that we had seen the mother grizzly with the two big cubs grazing on blueberries along the Park Road) that had the rangers keeping folks from getting off the buses unless just a couple at a time to dash to the outhouses! We were eventually allowed to get off and put food into the bear-proof storage.
So I asked the bus driver if it would be possible for him to drive us "back" about a mile to let us off. He said, "No problem." So eventually, the bus pulls onto the Park Road, and turns right, rather than left to go "back" across the Toklat River bridge. Well, to the driver, "back" meant further back into the depths of the park, NOT back the way we had come! That drive "back" might not have been allowable anyway, in retrospect. And, maybe there would have been no good place to turn the bus around "back" there!
Anyway, the driver took us about a mile to the opposite side of Unit 10 and on the far side of the Toklat River from where we wanted to be. We were dropped off right next to the Wolf Closure area on the edge of Unit 10.
We diddled with our packs and put on our gaiters. One of mine turned out to have a broken latch with a piece missing. I tied its strap in a knot to hold it after reversing a broken connector to try to keep the strap from slipping out.
Since we were now on the opposite side of the Toklat than we had planned, I figured we should go upstream to try to find a place to cross. There was a pretty good sized tributary stream coming in from the Wolf Closure Area to our right, but it was well-braided so pretty easy to cross. Careful selection of a route kept water out of our boots. We then had to go around far to our right close to the closure boundary due to the Toklat's main channel curving in front of us. The Toklat was fast and dirty. My thought was that by going upstream from this tributary, we'd find the Toklat to be smaller and less challenging to cross.
I still had my eye on climbing on Divide Mountain, now on the other side of the Toklat. So, coming to a wide section of the river channel (or, channels... as the river was pretty well-braided on this very wide gravelly flood plain) and after telling the others to wait, I began a crossing with water soon over the top of my boots and pulling at my gaiters, filling my boots with water. I waded facing upstream so the current would hit the front of my boots rather than the broader side of my boots. I had two trekking poles and my backpack. The current would pull gravel out from under my boots. But, fortunately, I stayed on my feet--the weight of the backpack helping maintain traction--and I reached a point of no return... over half-way so just kept plugging on rather than try to turn back; and I made it across unscathed but a bit shaky. But, I knew no one else, wisely, would want to (or should) try that crossing there! My backpack and general body weight gave me a traction advantage. But I was still desirous of having the others get across so we could all get to Divide Mountain.
Dropping my pack, I took out a rope and went further upstream looking for a wider and shallower crossing. Not much luck. One place looked fairly good, so I gave it a try. As I nearly reached the far side, the water got a bit deeper and the current pulled my right foot back as I tried to step to my right facing upstream and I rolled to my left onto my back into the water. I scrambled back to my stomach, regained my footing, and got on across. I had some scrapes on the knuckles and back of my right hand, but I had not gone "under" as my Gortex hat was still on my head and its cord had not been under my chin (foolishly!)
Walking back to the others, who I believe had made their way some distance upstream from where I had left them, I reported what they pretty much already knew, "We'll probably not find a good place to cross." They argued that I should NOT try to go back to retrieve my backpack as the water was getting deeper and faster as the ice melt into the river upstream increased as the morning sun did its thing. They figured we could make do without the group stove, cooking pots, my sleeping bag, dry clothes, and such in my pack. Well, I disagreed! But, if I did try to cross again, they felt I should have the rope tied to me.
I was not hot for that idea as I knew the water, while fast, was not really all that deep so I had little fear of drowning; but if I fell with the rope tied to me, it might drag me down and actually hinder my progress in scrambling to my feet and on across, but we gave it one try. The fairly deep water at that spot had me turn back almost immediately. I took the rope off from around my waist and with it in hand headed further upstream. I came to a spot with about 5 braided channels, and, with trepidation, did make it across without mishap and without the weight of the pack to help.
After jogging back downstream for my pack, I took a drink from my water bottle and then put it and my camera (which I had wisely left by my pack) into the main body of my pack, first also putting the camera into a Ziploc bag. I secured my hat with its cord under my chin and I started back upstream... sloshing in my boots. The river was wide here and the other folks were quite a ways across. I understand that Becky was trying to signal to me where I had crossed the third time but I failed to catch that. So apparently, I went beyond my previous crossing place and tried another spot further upstream... from which I backed out quickly when it got too deep and fast... and unsettling.
But I tried another spot and shakily made it across the first channel... which turned out to be the worst! I then more easily made it across 3 more channels... and with my chest strap loosened... to try to follow ONE rule of crossing, at least! :) But my heavy backpack was far less stable when loose and I wanted as much stable weight supporting my boot traction as I could muster so I had kept the waist belt fastened. I was tipping from side to side as it was while trying to maintain balance as I stepped with the water current tugging at my trekking poles, at my boots, and at the gravel beneath. I made the last channel crossing close to other folks waiting... and, praying I'd make it okay, as I was told. I figured they certainly didn't want any mishap by ME to ruin THEIR trip! :)
Barb had heated some water with her small stove and immediately gave to me a cup of HOT cider or cocoa... which immediately burned my tongue. I recall thinking, "Well, I made it across the durn Toklat four times pretty much unscathed and now burn my tongue!!" But it WAS nice to have friends thinking of my well-being! So, I let the drink cool as I got my feet into dry socks. I figured my quick-dry pants and shirt would dry faster on me than NOT on me and I didn't feel chilled at all, in spite of the cold glacial dirty water in which I had been splashing around.
Once I was into dry socks, soaking up the remaining moisture in my boots, we ate lunch and I finished the now cooler, hot drink. Barb, Becky, and Joe were relieved I had made the crossings but they knew it was a pretty dumb thing to have tried. TRUE - but, I had REALLY wanted us to camp on the other side to give Divide Mountain a shot and the camping looked to be a lot better over there. Maybe next time.